Dresden: A Diamond from the Ashes

Dresden, the capital of Saxony, was founded in the early 13th century, but the date that is indelibly etched on the minds of all Dresdeners is February 13, 1945 – the night when the city was razed to the ground in an iconic air raid and some 25,000 of its citizens perished. Prior to that fateful night, Dresden was one of Europe’s most beautiful cities and was often called “the Florence of the North.” Arguments have persisted ever since whether the raid was strategically justified or whether it was “Churchill’s revenge” for Coventry-- and the discussion continues.

What has happened, however, is that like the proverbial Phoenix, Dresden has risen from the ashes and has regained her stunning beauty.

Dresden is situated in Eastern Germany on either side of the River Elbe. At the heart of the Old Town on the left bank of the river is the 18th century Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) with its magnificent Baroque dome. This historic church was completely destroyed but has been rebuilt exactly as it was, using more than 100,000 of its original stones. Its reconstruction took ten years and was made possible by contributions from the world over. The church was consecrated in 2005 and now receives more than ten million tourists annually!

Other important sites in the Old Town are the magnificent “Zwinger” which was originally designed as an orangery and a setting for court festivities. It is said to be the most perfect example of Late Baroque architecture and now contains several museums, most notably the Old Masters gallery with paintings by Raphael and masters of the Italian Renaissance as well as incomparable collections of paintings by Dutch, Flemish, Spanish and German artists of the 16th-18th centuries.

Next to the “Zwinger” is the Theater Platz (Theatre Square) which is surrounded by stately palaces and government buildings and is dominated by the famous Semper Opera, one of the world’s great opera houses. Recently, when we left after attending a performance of Richard Strauss’ “Salome” we felt as though we had come upon an enchanting stage set, magically lit by moonlight.

Gottfried Semper, the only architect ever to have an opera house named after him, was also the architect of the impressive synagogue which served the Jewish community from 1840 until it was destroyed by the Nazis on “Kristsallnacht”, November 9, 1938. With the rebuilding of the Frauenkirche, and in response to popular demand, a new synagogue was also built. The government underwrote the costs and today there is a magnificent new synagogue on virtually the same spot as the old Semper Synagogue. Its exterior is meant to be reminiscent of the walls of the ancient Temple in Jerusalem while the sanctuary itself is surrounded by a metallic curtain recalling the tents of the wandering Israelites. The synagogue serves a community approaching 1,000 members and has become one of Dresden’s major tourist attractions.

Visitors to Dresden can feast on a cornucopia of attractions including some 40 museums, parks and palaces aplenty, and they can admire the Elbe by strolling along the regal Bruehl Terrace as well as by taking a leisurely steamer cruise to even more castles and palaces in picturesque nearby villages. For evening entertainment the Old Town has several theatres, concert halls and opera houses, while the New Town on the right bank of the Elbe is known for the lively atmosphere of its many pubs and traditional restaurants.

Much as Dresden is a major tourist center, it has also become one of Europe’s foremost high-tech locations with emphasis on microelectronics, IT and biotechnology. It has two major universities, world-class hospitals and multiple cultural, educational and scientific institutions and each year is host to countless international fairs and festivals.

Dresden, a city that was once destroyed and then closeted behind the “Iron Curtain” has again taken its place in the sun.

Peter L. Rothholz writes on destinations across the planet for The Cutting Edge News.